Tag Archives: solje

Møre og Romsdal….Nordmøre region bunad

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Møre og Romsdal….Nordmøre region bunad

Nordmore info

map with color counties

Møre and Romsdal in mid center Norway on the western coast

More and Romsdal

Check out the list of the major areas within Møre og Romsdal……

nordmore_dame_sylv

Nordmøre silver

Nordmore silver

Additional Nordmøre silver…

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Very interesting bunad you notice there is some variety to it….a difference in the color of the vest (either green or red usually made out of brocade) which can have a trim made out of silver: either woven silver braid or silver lace or some will have gold tone….the skirt has wonderful pleating done on the top of the woolen skirt in a technique that is hand done. You will notice on one version had a nice hand done red trim on the bottom (also shown in a photo)

There is  variety in apron: woven plaid that comes in a what could be called “Christmas type” colors bright green and red as well as a more subdued green (almost a grey green/teal) with a more muted red. As well as a white apron that can have a woven “bird design” or an open weave design.

The blouse is shown with a diamond design all done by hand.

It features a black “pixie” type hat thought to be worn only by un-married girls and then the white hat worn by married women.

The standard metal/silver belt is also mainly worn by married women but lately many non-married women also wear this beautiful belt with a distinctive design.

The silver/sølje is much like what is worn in other areas in Møre og Romsdal with this bunad wearing a very distinctive pin/earrings.

**** Some of the photos come from the website of http://www.bunadrosen.no as well as http://www.norskflid.no/bunad/….please under stand that these are some of the places to  purchase the bunad you see….as well as other places in Norway. As I have mentioned before you can also look at http://www.finn.no for used bunad but you will have to work out the details of how to pay in Norwegian Krone and have it shipped to the US….also the silver you have seen on this page come from various websites such as: www.sando.no and http://www.sylvsmidja.no/bunadsolv/

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Lundeby drakt….or costume….

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Lundeby woman

Lundeby costume is one of the prettiest costumes and one that is often worn in Oppland or Hedmark

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It was designed by pictorial artist Ulf Lundeby who lived in Lillehammer (in Oppland) and it is yet to be considered a bunad, and we will refer to it a as a costume or a drakt.

Ulf Lundeby designed the folk costume for a friend in honor of her 50th birthday in 1932. Although he lived in Lillehammer at the time  he was from Solør-Odal (in Hedmark) ,there are many that think it is Hedmark’s regional special folk costume. But it is also worn by many in the Oppland region as an embroidery shop in Lillehammer, Søstrene Julin, was given the rights to use Ulf Lundeby designs. It is  somewhat confusing, but a very popular costume, and the embroidery is quite beautiful and very flattering to many who wear it.

During World War II fabric was scarce, especially the darker color wools. Therefore the patterns of the Lundeby costume were traced onto white or natural wool. This is one of the ones you will still seen made in the white wool, often worn with white bunad shoes.

A plain blouse with a shirred neck is worn with this costume as no special blouse was ever designed. Raw silk blouses (trimmed in tatting) were worn with the white costumes, because it was thought to be more suitable than the bright white linen blouses, worn with the black or dark blue wool costumes.

You may see the purse being worn with either a clasp made out of brass or silver.

The hat has the same embroidery as the costume

Stockings are to be black with the black or blue costumes and white with the white costume.

There was no special silver designed for the Lundeby costume  (the pins are of traditional designs)

If you wish to purchase a jacket it should look like the one that is worn with the Gudbrandsdalen bunad.

(information from “A Sampler of Norway’s Folk Costumes by Thorbjøg Hjelmen Ugland)

Lundeby Lady

Lundeby white

Lundeby white (should be worn with white bunad shoes)

Lundeby silver package

Lundeby silver package from

http://www.sando.no

lundeby3Bstor

lundeby3Vstor

http://www.bunadnorway.com/indexdameregsolunde.htm

This may be a great choice for someone who wants a beautiful costume that is available in black, dark blue or white , as  it has pretty accent colors in shades of pink, it also has a wonderful trellis design along the hem line….and if you have interest in the areas of Norway  of Oppland or Hedmark regions, this is the costume for you!

blue lundeby

http://www.broderiforretningen.no/

Cleaning Sølje….

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Before

Before Cleaning

 

 

 

after

After Cleaning

I know many of you have beautiful sølje sitting in drawers and jewelry boxes that are all black and dark and you NEVER wear them and they should look like the one below:

Large all silver solje

They are beautiful pins and ones that many of us have received as gifts from grandmothers and family members but so often they get dirty and then put away and never to be seen again.

They are to be worn on your bunad or festdrakt but they can also be used every day if you wish on a blouse or dress and they should be taken care of as they are a work of art.

Here is what is suggested on the Sando website (www.sando.no) a great source for silver from Norway…this company is quite easy to work with and a have a great assortment of sølje for bunader from various regions. Their shipping is some what reasonable and I find them pretty competitive in pricing (for pricing directly from Norway)

….”Storing your silver:

Put the silver in a brooch-bag or a plastic bag, the goal is to make it airtight. Be careful not to use a rubber band. Sulfur from the rubber band will go through the plastic and make black marks that is very difficult to get rid of again. The silver that is sown on to your Bunad may be covered in clinging plastic.

How to take care of your silver:

This may be quite risky if you don’t know what you are doing. You have to consider the type of Bunad you have, and what kind of silver it is supposed to have. Silver that is sewn onto your Bunad should be picked off before you use anything other than a polish-cloth. This is so that you won’t ruin the fabric in your costume. If it is enough with a polish-cloth you just remove the lint with a lint-brush afterwards. To polish buttons you either get a polish-plate from your goldsmith, or you make one yourself by cutting a piece of cardboard and slide it underneath the buttons. That way you don’t have to worry about lint.

This is safe to do no matter what; Wash your silver in a fat dissolving dishwashing liquid (zalo) with a tiny bit of the detergent Salmiac in it. You could put it in a laundry detergent for hand wash of clothes. Usually these tips are enough to keep your silver as shiny as they are supposed to be. If you need more thorough cleaning one of these methods may fit;

Oxidized (dark) silver: Use a polis cloth. The tops will be shiny, and the patterns will stay dark, as it should be. Do not use any silver cleaning cream or similar, it may remove the dark areas that are supposed to be there.

Old gilded (Dark gold): May be treated like oxidized silver, but the need is rare.

Fair silver: The easy way is to dip it in silver-clean, rinse it under water and dry it off with a towel. Done in 30 seconds. The downside of this method is that the long-term-effect is poor, and that repeated use of this method will fade your silver to a grey-yellow shade. This may be fixed with a “silver cloth” or silver cream. If you use silver cream you should use a nail-brush, or an old toothbrush when you remove the cream again so every crack get cleaned out.

Gilded silver: May be treated like fair silver, but the need will be rarer.

If you have some questions that did not get answered here, or if there is a brooch you can’t find. Use the button “Contact us” and ask! We are happy to answer.”….

 

 

Now I learned a different method from my grandmother Hjordis Øiulfstad, she always cleaned her sølje in Ivory soap, just plain old bars of Ivory soap. Nothing fancy, just  the ones you buy at the grocery store etc. She would boil water (that is right, boil) in a heavy pot (such as a club aluminum pot) about 3 or 4 inches of water and then shave off Ivory soap (using a knife) into the boiling water. Then place the pins in the boiling water for about 7 minutes or so. If they are really really dirty you may have to change the water and soap and boil for a longer period of time. Remove the pins from the water and rinse thoroughly with cold water. Once completely rinsed, dry off and then go to the next step.

Step # 2.

I use Wrights Silver polish and a tooth brush. And gently brush each of the “spoons and dangles”  gently as they delicate…..take your time and look for any tarnish that may not have been removed by step # 1.

http://www.jawright.com/products/silver-cream.asp

wrights

Wash off and polish with a soft cloth such as an old clean white t-shirt or flannel cloth

Step # 3

Then use a silver polishing cloth (as shown in the photo below)…. again gently polish each of the dangle and spoons this time I use the polishing cloths…..

polishing clothYou can purchase them in various places….or order them off the Internet.

I suggest NEVER using the silver dip as over time it will harm your pins….

It may seem like a long process but well worth it. The pins are so beautiful and most are hand made, something you would want to treasure for a long time and pass down to other family members…

In another blog we will talk about various designs of the pins and how they are made!

Lofoten Bunad from Norway

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Lofoten

Lofoten one of the most beautiful places in Norway

also has one of the most bunads !!!!!

Lofoten map

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lofoten

map for Nordlands

Located in the northern area of Norway….Lofoten has beautiful scenery and beautiful wildlife…some of which is depicted in their national costume shown below…..

Lofoten Ladieslofoten-bunadrosen-02 back

(photos from www.bunadrosen.no website)

Lofoten Lady

lofoten back and front

Lofoten Lady

This beautiful costume was completed in 1948 and was very popular as soon as it was introduced. It depicts the flowers of the region embroidered on the bodice & the skirt which are made out of dark blue wool. The skirt has a edging of red along the hem.

The bodice closure are 6 silver buttons which are engraved with the same floral pattern as found on the costume. The blouse is white linen and has embroidery on the collar & cuffs.

The cape is half length & is made out of the same blue wool and is lined in red wool. The stocking should be black or white with this costume (or sometimes grey)

bunadsolv-lofoten-dame

Lofoten silver photo from www.bunadrosen.no

Lofoten

Nordland Bunad

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map for Nordlandsnordland_kart

Nordland is in the Northern area of Norway   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordland  and includes the cities listed on the map above (although some areas such as Hamrøy have there own distinct bunad)

Nordland LadiesNordlands Bunad family

  Blue bunad photo from www.bunadrosen.no website

Nordlands Ladies two designs

Nordland Ladies

It is one of the more popular bunad in Norway

This costume was created in 1928 based on material coming from Vefsn. There are 2 versions a blue one and a green one. It is often thought that the green represents the mountains of the region and the blue version is for the water or the coastal area. But this is probably not true…The shape of the bodice comes from a bridal costume from Vefsn and is made from either broadcloth or wool made from special Norwegian breed of sheep. It’s shape is a bit different from other designs as it is worn outside the skirt just a bit over the waist band. There are 3 medium sized fasteners about 6 to 7 cm in total length

The material for the skirt is the same as the bodice. The design work on the embroidery pattern on the skirt & bodice was done by Heimen Husflid in Oslo  The blouse should be linen and has embroidery on the neck & cuffs and it is the same pattern as what is found on the bottom of the skirt.

The shawl and the apron are mercerized cotton (handwoven or machine made). The shawl has a check design with fringes and the apron is mainly striped but has the check design at the bottom.

The gathered hat is taken from an old black silk one which was worn at church but the modern had is either blue or green made out of cotton trimmed with lace on the front edge. The cape is half length in either blue or green brocade and lined with a mustard color wool.

Many times two round brooches are worn, as well as a silver chain on the shawl.

The stockings should be white or black

bunadsolv-nordland-dame

         (from the www.bunadrosen.no website)

The silver is not too different for the Nordlands bunad…but you will find that it to be quite basic…possibly because the bunad is so beautiful that the silver will be a good  complement.

The blouse also has the wonderful embroidery design as seen on the bottom of the skirt

Blouse and solje closeup

http://www.norskflid.no/bunad/bunader/nordland/nordlandsbunaden/

Nordlands blouse

    http://www.bunadrosen.no/damebunad/nordlandsbunad

Nordlands Dogs

AND just so no one is left out on being part of the celebration on May 17th here is what your special family member should be wearing if you are from this part of Norway….

Once again, as mentioned before, if you are looking to purchase one of these wonderful bunad. You can look at the various websites mentioned in this blog (as well as many others) and see about having one made for you. Plan on having it cost approximately  $ 4,500 ! Remember this does not include the silver, a silver package (that would probably include the items shown in the photo above) could easily run another $ 1,200

( these prices do not include shipping ….which can be quite expensive)

You will have to consider spending approximately $ 6,000 or more. Unless you want to think about doing it yourself and then you will have to order a kit and which will still cost at least $ 1,500 just for the dress portion ( of course, you will have to do all the of embroidery) The blouse will be additional and the fabric for a linen blouse could easily be another $ 200 ++++ (plus you will have to do quite a bit of handwork).  The other option is to find someone who has one to sell and in this country & unfortunately  they are far and few between.

There is a website in Norway that you can review. It is somewhat like a cross between ebay and craigslist….it is www.finn.no You will often see the Nordlands bunad for sale second hand. But the problem you will run into is how to pay for and how to get it shipped. If you can work out those details then you will find it will save you quite a bit of money and if you can locate your size!  But bunads have very generous seams and they can be let out, so you may luck out…especially if you have a contact in Norway this could be a great way for you to go.

In future blogs we will talk about other bunad from this region:  Nordland Men’s: Lofoten and Hamarøy

Information researched from:

Norwegian Bunads

by Bent Vanberg, Karin Hybbestad Schwantes, Kjersti Skavhaug and Arne Svendsen  (1991)

Folk Costumes of Norway by Heidi Fossnes Cappelen

A sampler of Norway’s Folk Costumes

by Thorbjørg Hjelmen Ugland

So many different Sølje….

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Hallingdal Sølje

hallingdal_dame_sylv

When you wonder what is the correct silver to wear with your bunad there is of course is an answer from the Norwegian Institute of Bunad and Folk Costume ** as they provide a  great deal of information on all areas of the subject of bunad as well the topics related to them and in this case the silver or Sølje. Listed below is the statement that comes from their list of frequently asked questions.

” Can I use silver that does not belong to the costume? 
If you have inherited silver, please feel free to use this. Otherwise, we recommend that you use silver which is designed to costume.”

It clearly states that if you have inherited the silver then it is proper to wear it. I have also read online from the many question presented to the “experts” that if you receive it as your confirmation gift it can also be worn. [ As it is traditional in Norway (and also in the US to Norwegian/Americans) to receive your bunad as a gift for your confirmation.]

There is a wonderful list of the correct silver to be worn with each of the bunad on various websites . One that is easy to navigate and that will give you a good idea of the various pins etc is:

http://www.sando.no/en.html

This is a great company to work with as they source from various silver companies in Norway and provide you with a variety of all the wonderful pieces needed to complete your bunad. As you may know there are some 450 different bunad designs from the various regions around Norway and most of them have their own types of: pins/earrings/rings/neck pins/cufflinks and even knives that can be worn with the costumes.

It is most important that you have the proper jewelry when wearing your bunad as you do not want to be caught by the bunad police….wearing something as seen below:

OH nooo gold earrings and silver brooch

THIS IS A BIG NO NO !!!!!!!!!  No giant tacky earrings when wearing your bunad. If you do not own the proper earrings then wear nothing until you can find the correct ones.

There is a chance you will find something on ebay or locate them in a antique store or on etsy…but buying them from Norway or one of the on line shops such as:

http://www.scandinavian-south.com/jewelry.html

http://www.ingebretsens.com/jewelry/solje

http://bunadbutikken.com/

Would be the best way as this way you know you will be getting the best quality.

I prefer buying direct from Sando in Norway but the cost of shipping is quite high, but they have a wonderful assortment and are great to work with.

Show below are some of the complete groupings of sølje for specific bunad…hopefully you will see the one for your favorite bunad.

**        http://www.bunadogfolkedrakt.no/filer/TheNationalCouncilofFolkCostumesinNorwayx.pdf

bergensdrakt_sylv

Bergen Silver

hardanger_dame_sylvl

Hardanger Ladies Silver

voss_herre_sylv

                           Voss Men’s Silver                                      

Rogaland Silver

Rogaland Silver

trondelag_dame_sylv

          Trøndelog Silver

gudbrandsdal_dame_sylv

Gudbrandsdalen Silver

bunadsolv-nordland-dame

Nordlands Silver

*** Photographs from the www.sando.no website and the www.bunadrosen.no website